Hmmm... I'll jump into Gimpressionist and see what the standards are.

Try saving it as a pgm file.

You save the pgm file for GIMPressionist brushes. I've saved a few including a rice grain for my Rice Mosaic preset a while back. The problem with GIMPressionist is it's regularity w.r.t. circles. Either the placement is way too regular, or the result is too clumped. Neither desireable for the circlism result. Does make a cool litebrite simulation (if you add a few more tweaks) though and did create a GIMPressionist preset for litebrite too.

the great difference i see with beine works is the use of the circles and more of the space between circles

to simplify (he didn't really do that , he use a manual procedure )he use the outline of the circles overimposed (as in darken only mode) to a simplificated version of the image , don't remove or cover the the (simplificated) original image from the spaces between the circles

...i would say that good old greycstoration if used with high blur compensated by high anisotropy could simplify a image in a similar way...same for bilateral filter and patch smoothing

Ro that base should be added the circle outlines

Instead in most of examples here the space left between the circle is of a solid color that hide the original image behind, so make the image less readable, and the circles are without a outline that also is relevant for the effect

just my ten cent

PS edited because some lines went lost and that in combination with typos made it unreadable

PS 2 corrected again now should make sense

Just taking my favorite Doll model for another spin as I continue to inch closer to the look I'm trying to achieve. Used a reverse aniso (dup, run G'MIC Bilateral filter on Top layer set to Grain Extract) technique with result autoleveled for the target for the Voronoi stipple program with 500 dots then I open the result invert and make the white dots bigger (on black background of course) and rerun the Voronoi Stipple program with 1500 dots, then use Inkskape to individually size the dots in such a way and to try to eliminate overlap, then use the result as a mask for Sauls Mean Fill Script-fu.

ref: http://www.fontplay.com/freephotos/seve ... 107-03.jpg

I like it !!

Thanks PC; I think you might even like this one better. I got another brain phart to use G'MIC's Stencil (lyle's preset; thanks David) to guide the dots better. Two passes per my previous outline otherwise.

Much better result!

Thanks Mahvin. Still not anywhere near Ben's quality, but I never give up, even if it takes years. This whole process took 2 (or is it 3) years of my fiddling (on and off of course) already. Getting happier now. The biggest help is the Voronoi Stippling program. Just with someone would look at the ImagemagicK script and update it using current commands (since it's much faster then this plugin as I recall; can't get the gpu to work unfortunately with this program). Still, faster then me trying to place the dots by hand. lol

Faked it with a Bokeh brush.

What's a bokeh brush? Looks like too much work for a filter guy like me. Like what you did though Mahvin.

I'm afraid its probably going to come down to having a few circle brushes dif sizes and going at it by hand Lyle.
I assumed you were after the random look, i posted the MagicMesh images to show you the color effects from the Value setting in it.
Then you can just select the circles and move them around where you want them.making them random sizes i believe is also possible with MagicMesh.never really played with it that much though.

But it does grab the colors into the individual dots quite nicely.

It doesn't seem like it would be too hard to create a script that would go by selection and lay individual colored (value) dots in another layer over that selection.Or for that matter just lay in individual dots without color at dif sizes for each of your selections.
I bet David could add something to the dot filter in GMIC for this effect.


PM - that is an awesome looking image! Even in black and white his work is great.

I would love more information on how you did this! This is awesome!

@PM - Why do people mistake me for you? You ever wonder that? Anyway, I'll post again later on how I did that, but first... for Lyle:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bokeh

I made my own bokeh brushes using varying degrees of transparency. Use varying degrees of grays (dark to light) and add a solid black border that's about 1/10th the thickness. I have 25% transparent, 50% transparent, and 75% transparent brushes. You make them just like any other grayscale brush, white background, flattened, saved as greyscale - brushes. You can even find bokeh brushes on DeviantArt.

The reason I made 3 different brushes is to mimic shades within the image, to differentiate between them. If you make your own brushes, create them as big as possible, and then rescale the image size smaller. I started out with 800 x 800 and scaled the finished result to 200 x 200.

Also, in regards to Rod's suggestion on Magicmesh, those can be saved to SVG files and used in Inkscape.

I don't know, but I take it as a compliment!

Also, I think Rod was commenting on the image of Freddie Mercury that I posted.

I need to play with the bokeh brushes! (hint, hint)

I used the default inkscape tiled clones with a 140% translation and also added a random of 20% to the translation, then ran declump a few times to spead them away from each other.

-Rob A>

PM: Did you make some bokeh brushes or download a pack?

Here's a tutorial I used to make mine. Just using GIMP instead of PS.

http://free-web-design.co.cc/light-bubb ... orial.html

I'll have to try that out when I feel a little better. Maybe someone could share their bokeh brushes?

Try this again.

Here is the bokeh set I made. You can give them a try.

Looked at your brushes Mahvin (like I said; looked at them; too lazy to use them; lol). Hate to keep this topic open (SSP time again; lol), but I think I am getting at step closer. I first just do an outline of the image and run the Voronoi program (5000 pts), then I use the result as a white out over the image (set to lighten) and then widen the dots some before merging. I then copy a neutral grey on top layer set to lighten and flatten, then run the same Voronoi program (5000 pts). Then, with the result, I invert (white dots), widen the white dots and save the result for the 3rd pass of the Voronoi program (5000 pts). I then merge all 3 SVG files in GIMP and use the result as a mask for Saul's Mean Fill Script-fu (man, I wish I had a newer PC; lol. Had to invert the result of the mask of course). What you think of this one? As a side note, I can almost get away with just blurring the selection for the dots, but still it's too noticeable, so Saul's Script-fu I used (semi-perfetctionist (intentially mispelled) that I am; lol).